CREDITS – All images sourced from Team Charlie Gray
The Peacock Magazine sits down for a conversation with Charlie Gray, where he talks about how continues to push the boundaries of portraiture, bringing together cinematic influences with an intuitive understanding of his subjects. His images don’t just capture faces; they tell stories, reveal personalities and forge a connection that lingers long after the viewer moves on.
Charlie Gray is an internationally acclaimed photographer whose work is not just about the image, but the very essence of his subjects. Surrounded by album covers and video artwork at his father’s record store, Andy’s Records, Gray developed a fascination with visual storytelling and icons, a love that would define his career. His mother, a vintage fashion dealer, also played a profound role, introducing him to the beauty of craftsmanship and timeless style. These early influences quietly planted the seeds for a career that would intertwine art, fashion, and storytelling.
It was during university, however, that Gray found his true calling. Under the guidance of Stuart Smith, a renowned photographic book publisher, he was introduced to the world of documentary photography. Gray discovered the power of a single frame to tell a story, and his inspirations—Don McCullin’s raw, evocative work and Martin Parr’s ironic, vibrant colour palettes—helped him shape a style all his own. Over time, his photography evolved into something cinematic, combining narrative depth with an arresting visual aesthetic.
Gray’s breakthrough came in 2008 when BAFTA approached him to document their awards. For Gray, this wasn’t just a career milestone—it was a moment of validation. That project led to a cascade of opportunities, from shooting on film sets and creating iconic theatre and movie posters to working with international directors like Ralph Fiennes, Jamie Lloyd, and Sam Gold. His ability to capture mood, emotion, and story through his lens quickly earned him the trust of major publications like Vanity Fair, Vogue and Esquire.
Throughout his career, Gray has maintained a lifelong fascination with clothing and the stories garments can tell. Whether he’s working with leading actors or luxury brands, his attention to detail and his passion for cinema and fashion are ever-present. These elements came together in September 2023, when Gray unveiled ‘Performance’, a solo exhibition at Leica Gallery, London. The show, which featured intimate portraits of icons like Robert De Niro, Ronnie Wood and Monica Bellucci, celebrated the deeply personal relationship between photographer and sitter—a dynamic that has become central to Gray’s work.
Read on for the excerpts.
Q) When did you first realize that photography was your calling?
Charlie Gray (CG): I always loved art as a kid, constantly drawing and being encouraged to pursue it. During university, I explored a lens-based module under Stuart Smith, who introduced me to documentary photography. I photographed a group of mischievous kids in my village, and that first project felt natural and exciting. It was then I realized photography was the medium I wanted to specialize in.
Q) How did your time at your father’s record store, ‘Andy’s Records’, shape your understanding of visual storytelling and your appreciation for icons?
CG: Working at my father’s record store in Cambridge as a teenager was a formative experience. I spent hours handling album covers, from Prince to Pink Floyd, immersing myself in the artwork. It taught me the power of visuals and how they represent an artist’s identity. Moments like the Spice Girls visiting the store gave me firsthand exposure to the world of icons and storytelling through imagery.
Q) Your mother’s work as a vintage fashion dealer clearly influenced your aesthetic. How does her legacy continue to inspire your projects today?
CG: My mother’s work in vintage fashion influenced me deeply. As a child, I accompanied her to rag yards where she sourced incredible pieces, from vintage Levi’s to Victorian lace. Though I didn’t fully grasp the significance of it then, her meticulous eye for quality and detail shaped my appreciation for craftsmanship. Her legacy informs my understanding of style and storytelling in every project.
Q) What drew you to photography during university, and how did Stuart Smith’s mentorship shape your perspective on documentary storytelling?
CG: Stuart Smith was instrumental in guiding my career. During his lens-based module, he encouraged me to photograph personal stories, which sparked my interest in documentary-style projects. His honesty and constructive feedback taught me the importance of pushing boundaries and developing a clear vision–principles I carry into my work today.
Q) You’ve cited Don McCullin and Martin Parr as influences. Can you share how their work has guided your narrative approach to photography?
CG: Martin Parr’s use of humour, irony, and vibrant colour inspired me, especially his early work. Don McCullin’s emotionally intense, documentary-style photography influenced my approach to storytelling, teaching me to balance raw emotion with visual composition.
Q) What was your first photography gig? Can you walk us through that day?
CG: My first gig was a portrait for a local magazine in Cambridge. It was shot on slide film in low light, which was technically challenging. Looking back, I realise I was a bit naïve, but the experience taught me a lot about preparation and adaptability.
Q) Which shoot or photograph made you feel like you had “made it”?
CG: I’ve never felt like I’ve “made it” because there’s always more to achieve. However, shooting Tyson Fury for Arena Homme Plus and the Vanity Fair cover with Robert De Niro were pivotal moments. They opened doors and affirmed my progress as a photographer.
Q) Your portraiture is said to be influenced by the history of film. Can you describe how cinema informs your photographic style?
CG: Cinema has been a massive influence. Directors like Martin Scorsese and Andrei Tarkovsky inspire me with their storytelling, use of light, and emotional depth. Watching their work teaches me to create frames that evoke narrative and mood.
Q) What do you believe is the key to capturing an authentic connection between the photographer and sitter?
CG: Genuine interest in the subject is essential. I aim to work with people who intrigue me and create a collaborative atmosphere. Authenticity comes from respecting their individuality and finding a connection that allows their personality to shine through.
Q) Being approached by BAFTA in 2008 marked a turning point in your career. What did that moment mean to you, and how did it shape your journey?
CG: The BAFTA project introduced me to agents and publicists, leading to significant opportunities, including photographing Michael Caine on the set of Harry Brown. It marked my entry into a more professional realm and cemented my reputation as a trusted photographer.
Q) You’ve worked with notable directors like Jamie Lloyd and Ralph Fiennes. What have you learned about storytelling through your collaborations with filmmakers?
CG: Directors like Ralph Fiennes and Jamie Lloyd bring incredible attention to detail and structure to their projects. Watching them collaborate closely with actors taught me the value of preparation, clarity, and storytelling–lessons I incorporate into my own creative process.
Q) Are there any classic, yesteryear films you wish you could have worked on as a photographer?
CG: Goodfellas. The cast, atmosphere, costumes, and storytelling are phenomenal. It’s a film that embodies everything I admire in cinematic visuals.
Q) From Robert De Niro to Sir Anthony Hopkins, your portraits feature legendary personalities. How do you approach photographing such celebrated figures to reveal their essence?
CG: Respect and clear direction are key. These actors thrive on structure and collaboration, so I engage them in dialogue to create a comfortable environment. It’s about balancing their iconic persona with authenticity.
Q) You have a camaraderie with so many actors. Is it easier to photograph someone you get along with?
CG: Absolutely. When I have a connection with someone, the collaboration feels more natural, and the results are stronger. That mutual understanding elevates the creative process.
Q) Can you share a memorable experience from one of your film or theatre poster shoots?
CG: One that stands out is shooting Harvey Keitel on the rooftop of De Niro’s office in Tribeca. Keitel wore an Armani couture jacket, and when asked if he could keep it, Armani offered a discount. Keitel humorously declined, which was a moment of pure entertainment during the shoot.
Q) As a Leica Ambassador, what role does the Leica brand and its legacy play in your creative process?
CG: Leica cameras changed the way I see and capture the world. Their lenses are exceptional, allowing me to create images with a cinematic quality. Leica’s heritage aligns with my commitment to timeless storytelling.
Q) Your exhibition ‘Performance’ explores the intimacy between photographer and sitter. What inspired this theme, and how did you curate the works for the show?
CG: The exhibition stemmed from my interest in capturing genuine performances from my subjects. I worked closely with curator Lou Proud to select pieces that showcased this dynamic, emphasizing collaboration and trust.