The lowdown on some of the game-changing cover subjects which managed to inspire and empower, in equal measure.
By Manish Mishra
A fashion magazine cover doesn’t just mirror the trends or the sought-after celebrities but also speaks volumes about the times we live in. It’s an anthropological commentary on societal, political and cultural evolution. It could be a depiction of an environmental hazard or a cheeky take on the plastic surgery craze or a sincere plea for peace in the face of a war. While magazine covers before the 2000s mostly featured primarily white models and mainstream celebrities airbrushed to perfection, the new-age woke generation of editors and heads of content have attempted to make covers more inclusive and diverse. From putting yesteryear’s supermodels to Afro-American celebrities to celebrating plus size—fashion magazine covers have come a long way. Here’s looking at some of the noteworthy covers from mainstream and indie magazines which have had people sit up and take notice:
American Vogue, November 1998
For the November 1988 issue, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, Anna Wintour picked a rather unexpected cover star—a 19-year-old Israeli model Michaela Bercu. Wearing a $50 pair of faded Guess jeans and a bejewelled jacket by Christian Lacroix worth $10,000, this was considered rather questionable given Vogue’s legacy of promoting luxury and couture. When the printers saw the cover, they thought it was the wrong image. They called the magazine to check if it was correct! It was Anna’s way of mixing low and high, sublime and ridiculous. Easily one of the most memorable covers of Vogue.
British Vogue, January 1990
This cover from Vogue’s January 1990 issue, shot by celebrated photographer Peter Lindbergh ushered in the supermodel era. Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, and the late Tatjana Patitz started modelling in the 1980s but they became cult figures in the ’90s with the likes of Gianni Versace putting them on the runways. This cover celebrating the incredible runway scorchers was the beginning of the supermodel stardom era which was later eclipsed by Hollywood celebrities and reality TV stars.
Vogue Italia, May 2023
For its May 2023 cover, Vogue Italia took a real shot of Bella Hadid and placed it on imaginary backgrounds created by the artificial intelligence program DALL-E. A creative collaboration between photographer Carlijn Jacobs, stylist Imruh Asha and the artificial intelligence programme DALL-E, required the development of an ad hoc working strategy that was revised several times during the course of the project. An incredible example of how high fashion and AI complement each other to create something epic.
Vanity Fair, 2006
Easily one of the most talked-about covers of the decade, an open-shirted Tom Ford alongside Scarlett Johansson (who was 21 at the time) and Keira Knightley (then 20) in the buff. Shot by the legendary Annie Leibovitz and guest art directed by Ford himself, the cover elicited both hosannas and brickbats in equal measure. Three years later, the magazine would spoof its own cover by featuring Paul Rudd next to actors Seth Rogen, Jonah Hill and Jason Segel donning comically grotesque nude suits.
American Vogue, May 2023
For its May 2023 cover, American Vogue offered a thoughtful homage to Karl Lagerfeld (who had a mammoth legacy at Chloe, Fendi and Chanel), commissioning 10 designers to create looks inspired by the legendary late fashion designer. Pierpaolo Piccioli, John Galliano, Donatella Versace, Chitose Abe, Olivier Rousteing, Thom Browne, Christopher John Rogers, Jun Takahashi, Simone Rocha, and Gucci took part in the project. The shoot was held at the historic Grand Palais in Paris – a location so central to Karl’s Chanel universe. The result was emotional and memorable.
Vogue Italia, July 2008
This Black Issue was dedicated to black women not only in fashion but art, politics and entertainment. It sold out in the United States and the UK within 72 hours. An additional 30,000 copies were printed for U.S. newsstands and 30,000 more for European newsstands. Fashion magazines had overlooked inclusivity in the mid-2000s and editor Franca Sozzani decided to celebrate Black culture and give it the long overdue respect and recognition.
Vogue Italia, July 2005
The Makeover Madness issue was a critique of the burgeoning plastic surgery industry and its impact on privileged women. All in all, the issue was a socio-cultural commentary on how even the most privileged women with access to high-end luxuries still harbour insecurities about their face and body. This magazine cover highlighted how most women—no matter how successful—will equate their self-worth with their physicality. It still remains Vogue Italia’s most cutting-edge cover.
British Vogue, March 2024
Former British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful wanted to mark his final issue after seven years with something extraordinary and hence came in some of the world’s most notable women. Model Christy Turlington, British presenter Maya Jama, US actress Selma Blair and model Precious Lee were among the women invited to the shoot. When the cover was unveiled online, everyone wondered, “How on Earth did they manage to get 40 of the most desirable women on the planet in the same place at the same time?”
British Vogue’s 100th Anniversary Cover
It was the first time that Kate Middleton ever posed for a magazine shoot. The photos, shot by British photographer Josh Olins show her in the Norfolk countryside looking at ease and down-to-earth. The images of the shoot were later displayed in the National Portrait Gallery in London as part of the Vogue 100: A Century of Style exhibition. One of the most memorable covers under the aegis of the-then British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman.
Vogue Italia, August 2010
The Latest Wave issue brought into focus the Deepwater Horizon oil spill that occurred in the Gulf of Mexico on the 20th of April, 2010. It was considered the largest marine oil spill in history. The model on the cover appeared like a beached mermaid covered in oil which signifies the destruction of the natural environment done by the oil spill. The critics saw the oil spill inspiration as rather insensitive but editor Franca Sozzani remained unfazed by the backlash.
i-D, February 1996
The Survival Issue cover was shot by ace lensman David Sims and featured the ‘it’ girl of the moment—supermodel Kate Moss. The Nineties was defined by stark minimalism and soft grunge and the cover exemplifies these two attributes in totality. Placing her three (grubby) fingers over the right eye, the image brings focus to a whole lot of very good Kate; her face brings to mind her fun, effortless, irreverent and easy side.
Paper Magazine, Winter Issue 2014
Paper magazine’s winter issue, with the cover shot of Kim Kardashian by Jean-Paul Goude, broke the internet or perhaps that would be an understatement. Kanye tweeted “the butt cover” with the hashtag “#ALLDAY”. Within a couple of hours, he had been retweeted about 70,000 times. The inside photos—including the full nude—were released the following night at 8.30 pm. Trust the queen of reality TV, gossip and talk shows to always throw the audience off-kilter.
Vogue India, Launch Issue 2007
The first issue of Vogue India was released on September 20, 2007, with a cover shot by Patrick Demarchelier featuring Bipasha Basu, Gemma Ward, and Priyanka Chopra on the regular cover, and Monikangana Dutta, Preity Zinta, and Lakshmi Menon on the gatefold cover. Glossy, va va voom and celebrating the East meets West style vocabulary—it was unputdownable.
L’Officiel, October 1968
The cover boldly captures the youthquake of the 1960s synonymous with innovative designs by the likes of Pierre Cardin and Andrè Courrèges. Photographed by Roland Bianchini, the model is pictured in a jersey ensemble by Yves Saint Laurent, who at that time shocked the bourgeoisie with his fashion-forward designs. Imbued with vibrant hues and a hint of playfulness, the cover infuses fun back into fashion.
L’Officiel, October 1947
Illustrator René Gruau strikingly illustrated a Christian Dior fur coat designed in the Maison’s hyper-feminine New Look silhouette. As a longtime friend and collaborator of Monsieur Dior, Gruau captured this distinctive style, which ushered in a new wave of hope in war-ravaged Paris. The coat is illustrated on a flat, bright red background and the design is contoured with a delicate black outline.
CR Fashion Book, Issue 24
Beyonce fronted CR Fashion Book Issue 24, photographed by Louise Thornfeldt and Maria Thornfeldt, with styling by Shiona Turini and make-up by Sir John (two of Beyoncé’s chief collaborators). She posed in a Luis De Javier corset and tattered spray-painted T-shirt on the cover; meanwhile, on the other cover, she appears wearing a look from Maison Margiela and Givenchy heels. Trust fashion editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld to create iconic and memorable fashion imagery.
Vogue France, 1988
This was truly a watershed moment for the Fashion Bible. Naomi Campbell was the first Black model to feature on the cover of French Vogue in 1988. In many of her interviews, Naomi has time and again lamented how being a Black girl, she was denied a cover “They won’t give me a cover,” the supermodel remembered crying to her friend, the late, great Yves Saint Laurent, at the time. Yves used his influence to get her this historic cover. Since then Naomi has continued to grace countless covers.
L’Officiel, September 2016
The September 2016 issue of L’Officiel laid emphasis on Black beauty photographed by Ellen von Unwerth; it stars models and icons Iman, Ciara, Ajak Deng, Maria Borges, Anais Mali, Grace Boi, Riley Montana, and Adesuwa Aighewi dressed in Dior Haute Couture. The tone and voice of the cover went beyond the cookie-cutter magazine aesthetics but was an emphatic way to feature diverse voices and promote inclusivity and diversity.
Vogue France, March 2017
Former French Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt created history by putting a transgender model Valentina Sampaio on French Vogue’s March 2017 issue. Talking about it to the New York Times, Alt shared that it was her “sparkling personality”, that led her to feature the 20-year-old. Ms. Alt wrote in her editor’s letter that transgender people are “the ultimate of a rejection of conformity”—the sort of “icons that Vogue supports and chooses to celebrate.”
American Vogue, September 2007
It was Vogue’s biggest issue ever with 840 pages (apparently 727 of those were ads) and featured Sienna Miller wearing Marchesa on the cover shot by Maria Testino in Rome and styled by Tonne Goodman. The making of this cover is also featured prominently in The September Issue documentary (created by RJ Cutler). The cover spread revolves around a weekend in Rome with Sienna wearing feathery couture concoctions from Marchesa and other brands.
American Vogue, March 2024
For a change, it was refreshing to see a fashion designer gracing a magazine cover who epitomises cerebral chic in the truest sense. The legendary Miuccia Prada has always been a force of nature who’s stayed true to her belief and design philosophy unencumbered by commercial challenges. The creative force behind Prada and Miu Miu graced the cover of Vogue US’ March 2024 issue much to the delight of her fans.
Vogue France, January/February 2014
Any cover with Victoria and David Beckham on it is likely to do phenomenally well. Posh Beckham was chosen to guest edit the issue of the French glossy. The only other comparable British woman to have guest-edited in the past is Kate Moss. Editor Emmanuelle Alt shared with The Guardian, “We handed over the running of the issue to a woman who, throughout our working together, has proved to be the exact opposite of her public image.” Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin photograph the couple in two special edition covers posing in intimate photographs.
British Vogue, Multiple Covers during COVID-19
In the midst of the pandemic, Edward Enninful unveiled three exceptional British Vogue covers, fronted by three unknown people whom Edward felt should be prominently profiled because of their unwavering commitment to helping people during those difficult times: Narguis Horsford, a train driver on the London Overground, Rachel Millar, 24, a community midwife in east London, and Anisa Omar, a 21-year-old supermarket worker in King’s Cross. The July issue also featured other professionals across 20 pages, including doctors, shopkeepers, postal workers, nurses, cleaners, epidemiologists, carers, teachers, ambulance drivers, and volunteers from the fashion community and beyond.