Cartier’s journey began in 1847, when a young Louis-François Cartier, just 28, took over his mentor’s humble workshop in Paris. Armed with talent and vision, he transformed it into a name that would soon echo through the halls of the rich and elite. By 1856, Cartier had caught the eye of Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III, marking the brand’s first step into royalty. Three years later, Empress Eugénie’s order of a silver tea service helped further cement Louis-François’ status as a jeweller to the royalty. What had started as a small workshop was now part of Parisian luxury culture.
Louis-François’ grandson, Louis, carried this legacy forward, introducing timeless designs like the Tank watch and the Trinity ring, creations that became symbols of elegance and style. Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s visionary creative director, took the brand further with bold designs like the “Caged Bird” brooch and the Love bracelet, daring to push boundaries in a world that prized tradition.
Cartier’s magic, however, wasn’t just in its creations but in its connections. Alfred Cartier, Louis-François’ son, won the hearts of European royalty, including King Edward VII, who called Cartier “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers”. With Alfred’s son, Louis expanding the brand globally and opening the iconic Rue de La Paix showroom in 1899, Cartier was no longer just a jeweller—it was the embodiment of luxury, elegance, and innovation across the world.
The bond between Cartier and India is a tale woven with admiration and artistry, blossoming over decades through a shared passion for exquisite craftsmanship. Indian nobility often sought Cartier to reset their cherished jewels in platinum, resulting in stunning pieces that reflected their rich heritage.
One iconic creation was the magnificent necklace crafted for the Maharaja of Patiala in 1928, hailed as the largest ever made by a jeweller. This masterpiece beautifully blended Art Deco style with the ceremonial jewels of Indian royalty, celebrating culture and elegance.
Among Cartier’s treasures is the Jeanne Toussaint necklace, originally belonging to the Maharaja of Nawanagar, adorned with diamonds as large as golf balls! Jacques Cartier described it as “a superb realisation of a connoisseur’s dream”. Though later dismantled, its legacy endures.
The ceremonial choker of Sir Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala, made headlines when worn by Emma Chamberlain at the 2022 Met Gala, highlighting the enduring connection between Cartier and India’s royal heritage. Jacques Cartier’s reverence for these extraordinary pieces laid the foundation for a legacy that continues to inspire and enchant, celebrating a timeless relationship that has enriched both cultures.
What comes to your mind when you think of Cartier? For me, it’s their iconic Tank watch. The Cartier Tank watch is the epitome of the perfect blend of classic style and elegance. Louis-François Cartier, the visionary founder of Cartier, personally wore the Tank Louis Cartier, a masterpiece unveiled in 1922. Inspired by the Renault FT-17 tanks of World War One, the Tank watch is both a square and a rectangle, unique of its kind. The square case mirrors the military tank’s cockpit. This watch retains the timeless elements of the original design, including Roman numerals, a ‘rail track’ minute scale, and a sapphire cabochon. It has a striking rectangular dial, a luxurious alligator-skin strap, and elegantly rounded horns (strap attachments). The Tank watch is a symbol of sophistication, and historical prestige while it exudes elegance.
When one thinks of Cartier, it’s impossible not to be reminded of Princess Diana, whose timeless elegance and love for the brand’s exquisite pieces forever cemented the iconic connection between royalty and luxury. Michelle Obama was also recognized for adorning a Steel Cartier Tank Française, during her 8-year tenure as the First Lady.
Talking about recent events, Watch Enthusiast and Industrialist Anant Ambani wore a 720-carat Zambian emerald brooch, featuring a Cartier panther, for one of his wedding events. In 2022, Cartier introduced Deepika Padukone as their newest global brand ambassador. This significant announcement made history, with Deepika becoming the first Indian to represent the prestigious French luxury fashion house and this has been deeply rooted in Cartier’s long-standing connection with India.
Cartier’s designs are not only breathtaking but also deeply influenced by the rich traditions of various cultures. The brand’s embrace of Indian motifs, with its vibrant cabochons and carved gems, marked a significant departure from traditional diamonds, pearls, and platinum, showcasing Cartier’s ability to blend classic elegance with bold innovation. This fusion of cultural inspiration and artistic brilliance has led to the creation of some of the most iconic pieces in the world of luxury jewellery and watches.
Some legendary pieces that one can invest in are as follows:
Love:
Aldo Cipullo designed the unisex Love bracelet in the 1970s, blending industrial design with luxury. Its clean lines and distinctive screw head details are functional. The screw holds the bracelet together, symbolizing enduring love.
Tank:
In 1917, Louis Cartier designed the Tank watch with minimalist lines, Roman numerals, and blued hands. Its timeless design has made it one of Cartier’s most successful and enduring watch models.
Trinity:
Designed by Louis Cartier in 1924, the Trinity ring is renowned for its three interwoven bands of white, yellow, and rose gold, embodying a simple yet sophisticated style that has endured for nearly a century. In honour of its 100th anniversary this year, Cartier has unveiled three exquisite new variations: a cushion-shaped version, a modular version, and an XL version. Additionally, the collection features a reissue of the iconic XL bracelet, celebrating the enduring allure of this legendary design.
Panthère:
Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s influential designer from the 1930s to the 1970s, introduced the panther motif. The Cartier Panthère, created in the early 1980s, is a luxurious tribute to her legacy, serving as both a piece of fine jewellery and a watch.
Santos:
In 1904, Louis Cartier designed the Santos wristwatch for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Its practical design for aviators quickly became popular for its sporty look, and it remains a staple in Cartier’s collection over a century later.
Animal Jewellery Watches:
In 2024, a captivating chimera, inspired by the fusion of a zebra and a crocodile, sparked the creation of an entirely paved masterpiece. This piece is both graphic and organic, with each stripe meticulously lacquered by hand. The silhouette of this mythical creature wraps around a diamond-shaped dial as if embracing it. The intricate engraving around each coloured stone showcases the Maison’s exceptional craftsmanship.
Reflection de Cartier:
The Reflection de Cartier watch embodies the magic, illusion, and fascination of Cartier’s bold creations, blending the expertise of watchmaking and jewellery. Its innovative open bracelet combines openwork and polished reflective gold with elongated lines and defined edges. The delicate dial, meeting its reflection, creates an illusion of time moving backwards, while the gem-like bevelled glass enhances its sophisticated and precise double identity.
Today, Cartier remains a beacon of craftsmanship and style, blending its historic roots with bold new creations, and solidifying its place as a trailblazer in the world of haute horlogerie and fine jewellery. The brand’s legacy of luxury continues to evolve, leaving an indelible mark on the world for years to come.