The Peacock Magazine gives you the lowdown on some of fashion’s remarkable visual delights.
By Manish Mishra
Fashion enthusiasts are always on the lookout for an engaging, heartwarming fashion documentary or film, which nourishes one’s soul, inspires one and also gives one an accurate, realistic insight into the industry. It isn’t always about parties and schmoozing but a lot of heartbreak, soul searching, sweat and blood goes into making fashion brands and designers. The Peacock Magazine puts together some noteworthy documentaries and shorts that take the viewer deep into the dazzling world of fashion and luxury. From Anna Wintour enjoying her Starbucks in her town car to Alexa Chung helping you make informed choices as you prepare to enter this arena to the backstage drama associated with some of the most remarkable fashion shows–these documentaries, shorts and films help you dream, set your priorities right and also open your eyes to some grim realities which are rarely talked about. Here are 25 dazzling films which are worth revisiting from time to time:
1. 7 Days Out (2018)
This brilliant Netflix series captures a sea of emotions and the incredible hard work which goes into the creation of Chanel’s haute couture showcase. From seamstresses fine-tuning dresses at the atelier to Virginie Viard suggesting last-minute edits to the ensembles to Karl Lagerfeld charming us with his humour, wit and charm–it’s a visual feast for any fashion junkie itching for a couture escapade. Now the fact that Karl is no longer with us, the film makes for an emotional viewing taking us into his larger-than-life canvas–from his sketches to his take on French culture to his inimitable vision of making couture relevant in the modern world. From the creation of a fantasy French garden in the heart of Grand Palais to the backstage hair and make-up touch-ups to celebrities like Rita Ora and house collaborator Sofia Coppola gracing the front row–it’s a charming watch leading up to the Maison’s SS18 couture collection sprinkled with sequins and feathers.
2. The Return by Karl Lagerfeld (2013)
Chanel shorts (available on YouTube) directed by Karl Lagerfeld make for compelling viewing. From the cast to the set to the music–everything is created with finesse which is unmistakably Karl. Following the short, Once Upon a Time…, in which Karl Lagerfeld explored Gabrielle Chanel’s early days in Deauville, Karl’s other short, The Return, goes a bit further in time to retrace Coco’s reopening of her couture house in 1954. Not surprisingly Karl took a deep dive into Coco’s life to recreate the scene–from reimagining the décor of Chanel’s salon to an atelier located on the rue Cambon–Gabrielle Chanel’s address in Paris. Geraldine Chaplin plays the role of Gabrielle Chanel while Rupert Everett, Anna Mouglalis, Lady Amanda Harlech, Arielle Dombasle, Kati Nescher, Vincent Darré and Sam McKnight essay the rest of the characters.
3. Westwood: Punk. Icon. Activist. (2018)
In a remarkable career spanning over 40 years, Vivienne Westwood has inspired, shocked and seduced the world with her rebellious style steeped in activism and socio-political commentary. Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist takes the viewer not just into the design house, but also focuses on the iconic woman, who reconciled style with a sense of purpose. A daughter of Britain’s working class, she ditched her life as a married schoolteacher to open a series of boutiques with Sex Pistols manager Malcolm McLaren, entrenching the punk look on the map. Through archival footage and present-day interviews, Westwood comes across as a grounded presence in an industry plagued by superficiality. An outspoken activist for environmental and political causes, the film documents everything–from her runway shows to her audacious persona.
4. McQueen (2018)
Juxtaposing the savage beauty, originality and relevance of his design, McQueen is a thoughtful revelation of Alexander [Lee] McQueen’s own personal and professional world–both tortured and inspired. The film underscores the radical genius of profound influence and shows Lee’s rags-to-riches story as a modern-day fairy tale laced with the gothic. With a focus on his convention-defying fashion shows, the documentary traces how this East London lad became the toast of Paris. Moreover, the film shows us several clips from his shows, including his most infamous one, 1995’s Highland Rape. Late in the film, McQueen tells us, “If you want to know me, look at my work.”
5. The Boy Who Made Shoes For Lizards (2017)
“Never take yourself seriously, or you’re finished,” says shoe maven Manolo Blahnik in this charming documentary which highlights his savoir-faire, craft and depth of historical knowledge. Blahnik has been known for carving heels himself and sculpting the lasts (3D shoe templates) himself. Although he’s had an enviable career, having been one of the anointed beautiful people since this late ’60s (in his youthful prime, David Bailey shot him for the cover of Vogue with Anjelica Huston), he still comes across as a modest, giggly man in a lavender suit. With a who’s who of the fashion industry – Rihanna, Naomi Campbell, John Galliano, Karlie Kloss – singing his praises, it’s a must-watch for anyone who owns (or dreams of owning) Manolo’s mules and more.
6. Dries (2017)
For more than two decades, the Belgian designer has been creating magic with his unique artistic handwriting of romanticism-tinged fashion. And this film offers a beautiful perspective on his creative process. Filmed over an entire year, Dries is an intimate portrait that offers an insight into Dries van Noten’s life in the design studio and at home, following his journey creating four of his expansive, thoroughly researched collections. Now that Dries has retired, this film holds special significance offering an insight into the life, mind and creative heart of a genius who, for more than 25 years, has remained independent in a landscape of fashion consolidation and globalization. Director Reiner Holzemer follows him for one year and captures the creation of sheer magic.
7. Dior And I (2014)
This stunningly shot documentary takes us back into the headquarters and ateliers of Christian Dior as the newly appointed artistic director Raf Simons begins preparing for his debut showcase. To take on such an important role in a couture house is no easy task and given the mammoth legacy of the design house, Raf clearly has major shoes to fill in. With inputs from fashion critic Cathy Horyn and seamstresses at the atelier, Dior and I follows Raf on an intense, high-pressure journey while paying homage to the petites mains, who helped make his beautiful collection come to life in a period of eight weeks. From Raf’s mood boards to his art references to the fittings and last-minute changes to the final showcase with the front row filled with the who’s who–Dior And I is a sheer visual treat.
8. Valentino: The Last Emperor (2008)
Almost half a century after founding his fashion house, in 1959, Valentino Garavani, one of the world’s most celebrated designers, announced his retirement in 2007. Valentino: The Last Emperor takes a look at the professional and personal life of the designer, paying homage to his career as he prepares for his final show, and taking a closer look at the relationship between him and his long-term partner in business and life, Giancarlo Giammetti. From the love the designer harbours for his pugs to his timeless visions and inspirations to the chaotic behind-the-scenes footage–this is easily one of the best fashion documentaries to watch.
9. Alexa Chung: The Future Of Fashion (2015)
“The Future of Fashion is a mission to uncover the depth of the industry and the huge variety of roles that go towards sending clothes down the catwalk, season after season,” explains Alexa Chung, who attempts to investigate the multi-layered fashion industry with her Vogue Video series. From a candid interview with Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing on how he ascended through the ranks at the storied French house, to exploring how to secure a job at Vogue, Alexa brings her signature charm and wit to give an insider view of the ins and outs of the fashion world. A must-watch for every fashion student aiming to make a foray into the world of fashion.
10. Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer (2015)
His vibrant and evocative canvas has always been full of emojis and pop cultural references. Clashing FMCG imagery with luxury, Jeremy has been known for democratising fashion with his playful take. The People’s Designer documents Jeremy Scott’s Cinderella story, from being a small-town Missouri to helming the crucial role of the creative director of Moschino. Moreover, there are cameos from a host of his celeb super-fans, including Miley Cyrus, Rita Ora, Katy Perry and the Hilton sisters.
11. Lagerfeld Confidential (2007)
Now that Karl Lagerfeld is no more, this documentary makes for an even more emotional viewing. What did a day in the life of this icon look like? Lagerfeld Confidential gives you an idea, with its peek inside the everyday routine of the designer, who nourished Chanel, Fendi and Chloe with his inimitable creativity and singular vision. In it, Karl talks about his German upbringing and early career, allowing the camera to follow him to intimate spaces, from his chaotic Parisian apartment to a plush private jet, giving viewers an insight into the man behind the infamous dark glasses.
12. Bill Cunningham: New York (2010)
Bill Cunningham: New York documents the incredible life and works of the late photographer and longtime New York Times contributor at work. The original street-style lensman, Bill made his name photographing the vibrant streets of New York, getting around the city via his trademark bicycle. Admired by all, as Anna Wintour explains in the film, “We all get dressed for Bill.”
13. Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel (2011)
The iconic fashion editor Diana Vreeland catapulted the industry into the Modern Age during the ’60s. This film takes a look at her life, from society girl to Vogue editor-in-chief, to mainspring behind the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, telling the story of exactly how she became one of the most legendary fashion editors to date. With inputs from Anna Sui and Diane von Furstenberg, the documentary explores how she brought fashion, society, art and culture to the forefront.
14. The Director: An Evolution in Three Acts (2013)
Before Alessandro Michele, Gucci was under the direction of artistic director Frida Giannini, who presided over the Italian house between 2006 and 2014. The Director follows the famously press-shy designer, exploring Frida’s take on Gucci over the course of three collections. From Frida choosing models for the catwalk to James Franco coming for the fittings–this engaging documentary is a must-watch for anyone interested in the history of the Italian design house.
15. The September Issue (2009)
Easily one of the best documentaries, The September Issue follows the making of American Vogue’s 2007 September issue, traditionally the most important issue of the year (that particular issue remains US Vogue’s largest to date). From offering unprecedented access to the inner workings of Vogue to interviews with the likes of Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington–it is a visual treat. From the heartbreaks in the Vogue office to the Sienna Miller cover shoot in Rome with Mario Testino to the final issue going to press–the documentary sees some of the biggest names in the fashion industry. From Gaultier doing his couture fittings on model Coco Rocha to Anna’s daughter Bee giving her take on fashion to Oscar de la Renta giving Anna and Grace an exclusive preview–it’s dazzling and brilliant.
16. In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye (2015)
What do Vogue editors actually do? The US Vogue editors return to screens with In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye, commemorating the magazine’s 120th anniversary. Rather than focusing on a specific issue, it takes a look at how some of the publication’s most noteworthy editorials came to life. As well as the editors, many a famous face that have contributed to the magazine’s legacy makes an appearance, with the film featuring interviews with design talents such as Marc Jacobs and Nicolas Ghesquière, and Hollywood stars including Sarah Jessica Parker and Nicole Kidman.
17. Mademoiselle C (2013)
Mademoiselle C follows former Paris Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld on her quest to found her new publication CR Fashion Book, following her departure from Condé Nast. Friend of Karl Lagerfeld, and muse to Tom Ford (both of whom cameo in the film), Carine’s rich and interesting life is unveiled as she sets out, with her debut magazine, to create a new fashion lexicon. She’s a sexy grandma and one of the most famous names in fashion and this film depicts her vibrant and creatively charged life, her irreverent take on style and what makes her the legend that she’s today.
18. Inside Dior (2016)
Following Raf Simons’s exit, this two-part documentary goes behind the scenes during the hunt for a new creative director, following in the footsteps of Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano and, of course, Christian Dior. Celebrating the brand’s 70th anniversary, the series offers a unique insight into the luxury French fashion house and the transitional period between designers in the lead-up to the appointment of Maria Grazia Chiuri.
19. The True Cost (2015)
The True Cost delves into the adverse impact of the ever-expanding fashion industry, from the companies that take advantage of underpaid workers to the pesticides involved in cotton production that affect the environment and health of those around them. “I think we’re at a point where people are ready,” said director Andrew Morgan of how he hopes the film will affect audiences in The Guardian. “I think we’ve left people ignorant for a long time.” Along with executive producer Livia Firth, the creative director of brand consultancy Eco-Age, he hoped the film would awaken consumers and businesses to the unsustainability of increased production.
20. Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2020)
After thrilling us with Dries, documentarian Reiner Holzemer, adapts the story of another Belgian fashion legend: the reclusive Martin Margiela. The designer’s face is never shown on screen, with the camera instead honing in on his hands as he writes notes, constructs garments and huhandles treasured objects from his childhood in Genk. After tracing his upbringing, the film focuses on his illustrious career – from his renegade shows staged in disused freight trains and Salvation Army stores to his most memorable creations like the Tabi boot and the photo print dress, and finally his departure from the industry in 2009.
21. Wonder Boy (2019)
It takes you into the world of Olivier Rousteing, Balmain’s creative director. From the reinvention of the brand to his search for identity–it’s a treat to watch. Rousteing was adopted as a baby and grew up with no knowledge of his birth parents. Accompanied by filmmaker Anissa Bonnefont, he accesses his adoption file and makes a series of startling discoveries, including the fact that he isn’t (as he’d always assumed) mixed race. It’s an intimate portrait of a designer who is a metaphor for the glamour of Balmain, but behind it, all is driven by the very real desire to connect with his origin story.
22. Chiara Ferragni: Unposted (2019)
She became a global sensation with The Blonde Salad, a fashion and lifestyle blog. One of the most powerful influencers of her generation, she was the first blogger to grace the cover of Vogue (for Vogue Spain in April 2015) and has even been used as a case study by Harvard Business School. Elisa Amoruso’s eye-opening documentary charts her rise, featuring footage from her childhood to fashion shows and blog posts. Moreover, the film explores influencer culture, with academics, designers and fans weighing in on the nature of modern-day celebrity. An inspiring watch for anyone itching to make a mark in fashion and luxury blogging.
23. Halston (2019)
Synonymous with Seventies’ disco glam, louche silhouettes, bias cut dresses and unapologetic shine, American designer Halston has dressed the likes of Liza Minnelli, Bianca Jagger and Anjelica Huston and this documentary explores his inspiring career. In 1983, the designer created a collection for JC Penney (Primark’s US counterpart) which instigated a change in his industry’s perception. Here, the same team behind Dior and I explores how Halston was responsible for an era-defining aesthetic but eventually struggled to escape it.
24. Helmut Newton: The Bad And The Beautiful (2020)
Helmut Newton’s subjects, including Claudia Schiffer, Grace Jones and Marianne Faithfull, share their first-hand experiences of working with the late German photographer on some of fashion’s most powerful – and often controversial – imagery. There’s a brilliant clip of Newton appearing as a guest on French TV alongside Susan Sontag, who accuses him to his face of being a misogynist. Moreover, the film features terrific behind-the-scenes footage of Newton on the set of his shoots. “Don’t look poverty-stricken. Look incredible!” he instructs a model.
25. Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf’s (2013)
Matthew Miele’s documentary Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf’s makes for a fun, riveting watch. It’s definitely worth a watch for anyone working in luxury retail and visual merchandising. Also worth mentioning are the portraits of Bergdorf’s team players: Linda Fargo, the influential buyer; Betty Halbreich, a personal shopper; and David Hoey, who creates the renowned store windows.