THE SAREE-SHIRT: FALGUNI SHANE PEACOCK’S CONTEMPORARY TAKE ON AN ICONIC GARMENT


 

The saree-shirt allows for the elegance and grace of a saree to be incorporated into a more modern, easy-to-wear silhouette of a shirt.

In the 20 years of Falguni Shane Peacock’s existence, the brand has solidified its position as a global fashion icon. One of the reasons for this iconic status can be credited to its adept fusion of traditional Indian elements with contemporary aesthetics. Renowned for their intricate embroidery, innovative silhouettes, and luxurious fabrics—be it Westernwear or Indianwear, the designer duo have redefined haute couture like no other, appealing to a wide audience worldwide. It is no wonder that Falguni Shane Peacock’s one-of-a-kind couture creations have been worn by celebrities on red carpets and prestigious events globally, further enhancing their international acclaim.

 

When it comes to exquisite Indianwear, their designs are an amalgam of traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities, creating couture pieces that are both culturally rich and fashion-forward. Their ability to infuse traditional Indian techniques and motifs with a modern twist has set them apart in the world of fashion, earning them a reputation for creating stunning, one-of-a-kind ensembles that resonate with Indian, as well as global audiences.

When Falguni Shane Peacock made their comeback at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) in September 2023, they did so with a bold vision under the creative direction of celebrity stylist Law Roach. In the past, the brand had tasted success each time they showcased their collection at NYFW. For their comeback show, their aim was to marry traditional Indian elements with Western silhouettes, creating a fusion that was beyond imagination. Law Roach is undeniably leading the fleet of celebrity stylists from the front. His sartorial vision is unmatched and he has time and again proved that he doesn’t bring anything to the table; he brings the table.

 

 

 

Fresh off from his maiden visit to India for the grand inauguration of the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC), Law was bowled over by India—its beauty and its colours. “I had the opportunity to go to Mumbai in April (2023) and I fell in love with the culture. I fell in love with everything you would think you could fall in love with in India—the workmanship, the beading, the kindness of the people, the smells, the colours,” Law said. The noted stylist met Falguni Shane Peacock for the first time at the event, even though their association goes back to almost a decade when the trio came together to style Zendaya. The duo admittedly recollect the moment they met, it was as though they were ‘meeting a penpal for the first time’. The designers instantly knew that they would want Law Roach on board as the creative director for their comeback show that was scheduled for September 2023. “I didn’t know this was going to happen, so I took all my inspiration and I banked it. And when I got a call from my friends (Falguni Shane Peacock) here, I said it makes so much sense because I can do it from a real place. I’m not doing it from what I saw on the internet, I’m doing it from what I experienced myself. So I said yes. We didn’t have to think about (whether) I’ll say yes and (I’ll) do it,” Law recollects.

One of the Indian offerings, amongst many others, that Law was completely mesmerised with was the saree. Within minutes of the trio’s first meeting in New York, Law proposed the idea of merging the saree with a shirt for Falguni Shane Peacock’s comeback collection. One may wonder what a saree-shirt is, to begin with. It typically features a draped saree-like fabric that is attached to a shirt-style top, creating a fusion of the two styles. The saree-shirt allows for the elegance and grace of a saree to be incorporated into a more modern, easy-to-wear silhouette of a shirt. Shane Peacock initially had reservations about the idea. He best believed that infusing traditional elements would be done through craftsmanship and motifs rather than altering the silhouette. However, his better half and co-founder Falguni Peacock saw what Law envisioned and understood what he wanted to achieve for the collection and the brand as a whole. She supported Law’s idea wholeheartedly, agreeing with Law that it could be a groundbreaking concept. It was Falguni’s enthusiasm and belief in Law’s vision that eventually pressed the idea home for Shane, and they decided to go all out with the idea of marrying the two aesthetics. This silhouette eventually became instrumental in shaping the innovative and successful collection showcased at New York Fashion Week. “(And then) they allowed me to bring Mumbai to New York and New York to Mumbai. A collusion of both cultures. And that’s what you saw,” Law said.

Falguni Shane Peacock have consistently strived to break barriers, explore unconventional paths, and achieve the unimaginable in the world of fashion. Throughout its journey, the brand has achieved several pioneering moments, always pushing boundaries and redefining conventional concepts. The creation of the saree-shirt for the collection was another such groundbreaking moment in the brand’s history. It symbolised a milestone, representing the brand’s innovative spirit and commitment to challenging norms. With this creation, the saree was not just incorporated into Western fashion; it was transformed into a Western silhouette itself—showcasing the brand’s ability to weave together two cultures and create something entirely new and extraordinary!

 

 

“This (Peacock) girl is cool, she loves India, she loves beading, she loves embellishments, but she also loves New York, right! So, that’s why you saw the hats and the sweatshirts that will be done in cashmere for all you guys to buy. And this is something that she feels she could wear on a subway. She throws a hat on to protect her hair. She gets off and she tosses the hat and she brushes her fingers through her hair and she’s all ready for an event. She does it her way, right. So yeah, that’s our girl and that’s what we settled on,” creative director Law Roach said while commenting about the collection and the idea of a saree-shirt.

The creation of the saree-shirt marks a significant shift in the way the traditional Indian saree is perceived and worn. With it being easy-to-wear and eliminating the need for elaborate draping, the saree-shirt opens up a world of possibilities for fashion enthusiasts. Its versatility allows for endless styling options. This garment is especially appealing to those who have always admired the beauty of the saree but have been deterred by the complexities of draping it. Now, with the invention of the saree-shirt, wearing a saree with pride and ease is within reach of everyone, regardless of gender. Case in point: Law Roach who bowed out wearing one of the saree-shirt pieces from the collection. The garment holds immense potential to become a staple in every wardrobe, thus offering a piece of India with a contemporary twist.

 

 
 

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